[USA] Marine extracts have the potential to be hugely important in anti-aging. One symptom of hormonally aging skin is dryness, so extreme that it leaves skin washed out, drawn and fragile. Some kinds of seaweeds (e.g. laminaria digitata) contain polysaccharide alginic acid, which locks moisture in the skin. I found a brightening serum by Repechage that has a laminaria digitata “complex.” Ulva lactuca is a green seaweed that is known and sea lettuce and it is source of aosine, an enzyme that neutralizes the elastase responsible for breaking down elastin in the skin.
Red algae is a good source of glycans, which increase the production of collagen by aiding intra-cellular communication and delivering vitamins and minerals for cellular health.
Although marine actives are supposedly a big beauty trend, it isn’t easy to find good formulas. A recent discovery is Moana Skincare from New Zealand, using high concentrations of red seaweed marine glycans throughout its range with 95% in the Moana Night Repair Serum ($110 in the shop). Another reason to be interested in the Velvet Skincare product that I stumbled across is that it has three types of seaweed extract as well as the red clover.
Pentapeptides and copper peptides
When all is said and done, it comes down to collagen production and pentapeptides and copper peptides excel. Although there isn’t much independent research, there’s a strong track record in the field for the pentapeptides marketed as Matrixyl and Matrixyl 3000
Benir Beauty BV-9 Platinum Provectus Super Serum ($195 in the shop) checks quite a few boxes with seaweed extract, pentapeptide-18 and Matrixyl 3000. Soleil Toujours Broad Spectrum Moisturizer SPF 20 ($55 in the shop) has myristoyl pentapeptide-11. Medik8 Firewall ($145 in the shop) has Matrixyl 3000 and copper peptides. And for the more budget conscious, I am currently testing a Matrixyl 3000 serum that is $35 by ASDM Beverly Hills.
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